Have you ever sat cross-legged on your bedroom floor, sifting through a box of inherited jewellery, feeling completely overwhelmed? I know that feeling. As a jewellery expert, I've helped countless people navigate through their family treasures, and I've seen that same look of uncertainty on so many faces.
Where Do You Even Begin?
Let me share a story that might sound familiar. Last month, Sarah visited me with three boxes of her grandmother's jewellery. "I've spent hours on Google," she sighed, "but I still can't tell what's valuable and what isn't." She'd inherited everything from what appeared to be Victorian rings to 1980s costume jewellery, and her home insurance company was asking for details she couldn't provide.
The Hidden Stories in Your Jewellery Box
You might think identifying jewellery is as simple as looking for hallmarks or checking Google, but there's so much more to it. I recently examined what looked like a simple silver bracelet for a client who was about to sell it at a car boot sale for £5. It turned out to be platinum Art Deco - worth significantly more than she'd imagined. On the flip side, I've had to break the news to many people that their 'solid gold' chains were actually gold-plated brass.
Those Mysterious Marks and Symbols
Did you know there are over 400,000 different registered makers' marks in Britain alone? Add to that the various date letters, assay office marks, and quality marks, and you're looking at quite a puzzle. I remember one client who was convinced her ring was 18ct gold because it had the number '18' stamped inside. Unfortunately, it wasn't a hallmark at all - just a pattern number.
The Time Machine: Jewellery Through the Ages
Each era tells its own story through jewellery. Victorian pieces might contain hair from loved ones (yes, really!), while Georgian jewellery often features closed-back settings to enhance the sparkle of diamonds under candlelight. I once helped a family identify a Roman bronze brooch they'd assumed was a 1970s costume piece - imagine their surprise!
Unexpected Treasures in Unexpected Places
Some of my favourite stories come from the most unusual discoveries. A family in Kent found a collection of 1920s diamond rings hidden in their home's walls during renovation. Another client discovered her great-grandmother's engagement ring sewn into the hem of an old curtain - apparently a common hiding place during wartime.
The Insurance Puzzle
Here's something that might surprise you: most home insurance policies have strict limits on jewellery unless items are specifically listed and documented. I've seen too many people discover this the hard way. One client lost a £20,000 sapphire ring but could only claim £2,500 because she hadn't documented it properly.
Practical Tips to Get You Started
While professional guidance is often helpful, here are some initial steps you can take:
Photograph everything - even pieces you think aren't valuable
Look for hallmarks with a magnifying glass (but don't assume all marks are hallmarks)
Keep original boxes and any documentation
Write down any family stories about specific pieces
Store things separately to prevent damage
Never clean anything until you know what it is (I once saw a rare patina destroyed by enthusiastic polishing)
Common Pitfalls to Avoid
The internet is full of 'quick tips' for testing gold and identifying gems, but please be careful. I've seen beautiful pieces damaged by lemon juice tests and 'scratch testing'. One client nearly destroyed a rare opal trying to test its hardness with a knife.
When to Seek Help
Consider professional guidance if:
You're planning to sell anything
You need accurate insurance documentation
You've found something that looks unusually old or valuable
You're dividing items between family members
You're simply feeling overwhelmed
Famous Finds: Tales of Hidden Treasures
The stories of discovered jewellery never cease to amaze me. Just last year, I worked with a woman who found exquisite Art Deco pieces tucked away in her grandmother's sewing box - beneath layers of buttons and thread. The pieces were wrapped in 1920s newspaper, perfectly preserved. Another memorable case involved a family in Devon who discovered valuable Georgian jewellery concealed in a false drawer while clearing their late aunt's estate. Perhaps most intriguingly, a couple renovating their Victorian home in Bath found mourning jewellery hidden within their walls - pieces that dated back to 1878.
The Insurance Maze: What You Need to Know
Let's talk about insurance - not the most exciting topic, but absolutely crucial. Different insurers have different requirements, but here's what the major UK companies typically expect:
Photographs of each piece from multiple angles
Professional valuations for items worth over £1,000
Detailed descriptions including measurements and weights
Evidence of authenticity for significant pieces
Regular revaluation every 3-5 years
I recently worked with a client who lost a sapphire ring in a house fire. Because she'd properly documented everything, her £15,000 claim was processed without issue. Another client wasn't so fortunate - she could only claim £2,500 for a lost Victorian necklace worth ten times that amount because she hadn't updated her documentation.
Storage Secrets: Preserving Your Treasures
You might be surprised to learn that some of the most common storage methods can actually damage your jewellery. That velvet-lined jewellery box might look lovely, but certain velvets can contain chemicals that tarnish silver. I've seen countless pearls damaged by storage in plastic bags - they need to 'breathe'. Here's what you really need to know:
Keep silver in anti-tarnish bags, not plastic
Store pearls separately - they're incredibly soft and easily scratched
Never store opals in hot places - they can crack from dehydration
Keep jewellery boxes away from radiators and direct sunlight
Use acid-free tissue paper between pieces
Common Gemstones in Inherited Collections
One of the most frequent questions I hear is, "Is this a real diamond?" But diamonds aren't the only precious stones you might encounter. I regularly find:
Paste gems (glass) in Victorian jewellery - these aren't 'fake', they're historically significant
Rose-cut diamonds - often mistaken for rhinestones
Natural pearls - frequently undervalued as 'costume jewellery'
Garnets - commonly used in Georgian and Victorian pieces
Amethysts - particularly popular in Art Deco pieces
Last month, I examined what a client thought was a piece of costume jewellery with purple glass - it turned out to be a Georgian amethyst brooch worth several thousand pounds.
Common Mistakes: What Not to Do
Please, whatever you do, don't:
Clean anything until you know what it is
Try the 'gold testing' methods you see on YouTube
Attempt to polish old silver - you might remove valuable patina
Store pearls in plastic bags
Throw away old jewellery boxes - they often help with identification
Use ultrasonic cleaners without professional advice
I once had a client who tried testing a 'gold' ring with vinegar - it turned out to be a rare bronze Roman artifact. Another used a metal polish on a Georgian silver locket, destroying its value in minutes.
Documentation: Creating a Proper Record
Think like a detective when documenting your pieces. You'll need:
Clear photographs from multiple angles
Measurements and weights
Details of any hallmarks or makers' marks
Notes about condition, including any damage
Family history associated with each piece
Safe storage location records
I provide my clients with a special documentation template - I'll share more about this in a future blog post.
The Ethical Dilemma: When Family Jewellery Meets Family Dynamics
This is perhaps the most delicate aspect of inherited jewellery. I recently worked with three sisters who inherited their mother's collection. The most valuable piece wasn't the most emotionally significant - how do you handle that? We'll explore this topic in detail in an upcoming post about navigating family jewellery distribution.
Working with Auction Houses: What You Need to Know
Not all auction houses are created equal. From local auctions to Sotheby's, each has its niche. I recently guided a client whose grandmother's 'costume' necklace turned out to be by Cartier - definitely not suited for a local auction. Here's what I've learned:
Regional auction houses often specialise in specific periods
Commission rates vary significantly (typically 10-30%)
Some require minimum value thresholds
Photography and catalogue inclusion might cost extra
Reserve prices aren't always in your best interest
Historical Periods: A Journey Through Time
Each era has its distinctive style. Here's a quick guide:
Georgian (1714-1837)
Hand-crafted, often with closed-back settings
Common materials: Silver, 18ct gold, diamonds, garnets
Often modified over centuries
Rarest to find intact
Victorian (1837-1901)
Early: Romantic motifs, serpents, hearts
Mid: Dark and sombre mourning jewellery
Late: Delicate designs, diamonds, growth of mass production
Materials varied by period
Art Nouveau (1890-1910)
Flowing, natural forms
Enamelling techniques
Unusual materials like horn and glass
Often fragile due to design complexity
Art Deco (1920-1935)
Geometric designs
Contrasting colours
Platinum became popular
Modern cutting styles for diamonds
Professional Photography Tips
You don't need expensive equipment, but you do need:
Natural daylight (avoid flash)
Plain background (grey or white)
Macro setting for hallmarks
Scale reference in photos
Multiple angles
Clean lens and steady hand
I'll be sharing detailed photography guidelines in an upcoming post.
Material Care Guidelines
Different materials need different care:
Gold: Mild soap and water only
Silver: Anti-tarnish strips, no chemical dips
Pearls: Wipe after wearing, avoid cosmetics
Opals: Avoid temperature changes
Emeralds: No ultrasonic cleaning
Costume jewellery: Dry cleaning only
Spotting Reproductions vs Genuine Antiques
This requires attention to detail:
Check construction methods
Look for appropriate wear patterns
Examine materials used
Study hallmarks carefully
Consider piece's weight
I recently examined a 'Victorian' bracelet that had modern screws - an immediate red flag.
The Value Beyond Price
Sometimes the most valuable pieces aren't the most expensive. I worked with a family who had their grandmother's simple gold wedding band and a valuable diamond ring. The wedding band, though worth less, carried generations of family history.
What To Do If You Find Something Suspicious
If you suspect you've found something significant:
Document its location and condition
Don't clean it
Photograph everything
Keep any associated papers
Seek professional advice
Consider reporting if potentially archaeological
Looking Forward: Preserving Legacy
Understanding your inherited jewellery isn't just about determining value - it's about preserving stories for future generations. Consider:
Creating detailed family records
Properly insuring significant pieces
Planning future distribution
Maintaining proper storage
Regular professional checking
Remember, every piece of jewellery tells a story. Sometimes it's a story of significant monetary value, sometimes it's a precious family tale, and occasionally it's both. The key is having the knowledge to understand what you're looking at.
Looking to the Future
Whether you plan to keep, sell, or pass on your inherited jewellery, understanding what you have is crucial. It's not just about monetary value - it's about preserving family history and making informed decisions.
What's Next?
Over the coming weeks, I'll be sharing detailed guides about specific aspects of inherited jewellery, including:
How to photograph your collection properly
Understanding different historical periods
Storage and preservation techniques
Working with auction houses
Navigating family dynamics
Insurance documentation requirements
Need Help?
If you're feeling overwhelmed with your inherited collection, you're not alone. I offer personal consultation services to help you navigate these waters. Meanwhile, keep an eye out for my upcoming series of detailed guides on each aspect we've covered today.
Have questions about your inherited jewellery? Share your stories or challenges in the comments below - I'd love to hear them.
Kim Rix, GG GIA
Gemstone Detective
Comments